Ex Files

Valencia~ Jewel of the White Coast

By Silvia Keller

Spain’s third largest city, Valencia, is celebrated for Paella (A rice dish with seafood or chicken and rabbit), and the beauty of its white sandy beaches.  But Valencia is much more; it is tradition and modernism all in one place.   Because of its privileged location on the Costa Blanca (White Coast) Valencia will be the host city for the 2007 sailing regatta, America’s cup. For information on dates and events go here.

As you walk through the old part of town, you will encounter Horchata stands, where you can get a smooth and sweet milky-like drink made from the Chufa seed.  Chufas only grow in few parts of the world and Valencia is one of them.  Its health claims surpass those of any pill on the market.  So drink up and to your health!!!! 

If in Exile and solitude is what you seek, lunch at one of the many restaurants that line the boardwalk on the beach is a must.   This is a great place for long walks, sunshine, warm Mediterranean breezes and fine cuisine.  My favorite is Pepica, known for its seafood Paellas, and even mentioned in Hemingway’s The Dangerous Summer.      

There are several ways for you to Exorcise the past.  One of course through retail therapy.   Valencia is home to some of Spain’s best pottery and Lladró porcelain.  Local craftspeople take pride in their azulejos (brightly colored ceramic tiles) first developed during the Muslim occupation of Andalucia.   For a large selection of porcelain go to Lladró at Calle Poeta Querol 9. Telephone number 34 96 351 16 25  No website available at this time.   For the best azulejos and prices it is worth the drive 5 1/ 2 miles west of Valencia to Manises. You will find shop after shop and you will want to take everything home.  No website is available as I was told; craftspeople are very proud and protective of their creations.   

If still in need to Exorcise make sure you visit during the Fallas de San Jose Festival, when they honor the arrival of Spring with parades, fireworks and street dancing.  Fallas, or paper mache effigies are burned during one of the ceremonies, to symbolize the exorcism of social problems and wish good luck to farmers in the coming Summer.  This too, can be your symbolic start of a new life and an Exorcism of the old. Valencia can be the beginning of more great things to come.   

This is a fabulous city to Explore and Expand your mind.  There is no place in the world like the City of Arts and Sciences, the largest cultural-educational complex in Europe. It is composed of  L’Oceanographic,  20 acres devoted to lagoons and  leisure pavilions arranged into an underwater city with marine habitats from every ocean; L’Hemispheric, built by award winning Architect Santiago Calatrava, offering documentaries and explorations of the universe; a laser show that runs on a 900 sq. ft. concave IMAX screen with the soundtrack in four languages;  Museum of Sciences Prince Phillip- a breathtaking building in the form of a human eye, and an innovative center for the performing arts which presents the finest in dance, opera and theater.   For information on hours and events go to www.cac.es .   For concerts and other cultural events go to www.comunitatvalenciana.com

Go back into the 13th Century to Cathedral Seu, which claims to possess the Holy Grail, (the chalice Jesus used at the Last Supper).  It is on display in a side chapel.  Afterwards, continue to Explore up 155 ft to the Miguelete, a Gothic tower.  You will have the best views of the city and it is a great place to Exhale while yelling out “I am woman, I am strong, hear me roar” . You will come out renewed.  The Cathedral is open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.  Admission is free.   Telephone number 34 96-391-8127.

Continue your walk to the Lonja de Seda (former Silk exchange),  a remarkable building; an elegant gothic structure built towards  the end of the 15th Century, declared a World Heritage Site,  and currently  used for concerts and parties for the Royal Family.

A place for you to Express yourself is the Valencia Institute of Modern Art.  It consists of one ultramodern building and a 13th Century former convent. It’s opening gained Valencia prime status among the world’s art capitals.   The institute is located at the western edge of the old quarter, near 15th Century towers that guard the entrance to the city.   For exhibits and hours of operation go to www.Ivam.es/     In Spain call 34   96 386 30 00. 

Be Cleopatra Cruising the Nile

By Geraldine McClintock

Cairo is the capital city of Egypt but it is most famous for being the home of one of the wonders of the ancient world, The Pyramids at Giza. With the Sphinx who sits watching and guarding the last resting place of some of the greatest Pharaoh’s of the ancient world. Egypt has all the things you want on a vacation sun, sea and sand with plenty of things to see, do and to experience this culture first hand and it is definitely one vacation spot you will not soon forget. If you’re looking for some quiet Exile in Egypt then a Nile Cruise may be just the thing for you. A floating hotel which takes you down the Nile stopping at different ports for you to explore ancient temples and ruins but you don’t have to get off at every port so there is plenty of time to get some rest, relaxation and sun bathing. The cabins are spacious and deliver excellent views of the real beauty of Egypt as you sail from one destination to the next, and your whole vacation doesn’t need to be spent entirely on the cruise you can book just a few days to get your head together and then go ashore feeling rejuvenated to your main hotel for the rest of your stay. There are plenty of places to Explore on your visit to Cairo from museums to pyramids, temple ruins, bazaars and mosques. The Pyramids at Giza consist of three pyramids one of those pyramids is known as ‘The Great Pyramid’ which was built by the pharaoh known as Khufu in the fourth dynasty approximately around 2560 BC when it was built it was about 481ft high but through time it has lost some of that height. The Great Pyramid is the tallest structure on the earth and has been for 43 centuries. As you look up to this great structure which can make you dizzy, you try to imagine the builders of the pyramids and wonder how they felt as they were finishing the very top of the pyramids did they look down and feel dizzy or sick, I think I would have. The pyramids are only about 10km from downtown Cairo; it’s a strange looking city where old and new seems intertwined in perfect sync. As famous as the pyramids is ‘The Sphinx’ the statue is that of the body of a lion and the face of a man it is 70m long and 20m high, the lion in most cultures represents power and might while the head shows the headdress of royalty. The human face of the Sphinx watches the rising sun as it guards the last resting place of some of Egypt’s pharaohs. One of the best story telling attractions is The Sound and Light Show which is held at Giza, the pyramids and the sphinx are used to create an atmosphere of a time travelling journey through the ages and lives of the ancient pharaoh’s of Egypt who are buried in the three pyramids. About 24km south of Cairo is Memphis which is one of the oldest cities in the world it was founded around 3,100 BC. In the old kingdom it was once the capital city of ancient Egypt.

Although not much of the ancient city remains there is a museum there which houses many statues of interest, Sakkara was the cemetery for Memphis and is well know for The Step Pyramid of King Zoser that is dated around 2700BC this makes it one of the oldest stone structures. Sakkara is the main site for many tombs from the first and second dynasty. Where as ‘The Pyramids at Giza’ where built with limestone the pyramids and tombs in Sakkara were mostly made out of mud and breaksand.

Another tourist attraction well worth Exploring and shows the true Expressionism of the city and the ancient world is The Egyptian Museum in Cairo among the statues, coffins, canopic jars, ancient furniture, sculptures, architectural decorations, writing utensils and ceremonial equipment there is an amazing collection of items that where found in the tomb of the boy king Tutankhamun which include jewellery, shields, sandals, statues, vases, tomb equipment, sculpture, ancient games, furniture and the burial mask of the boy king, this piece is absolutely amazing it is life sized and decorated in gold and precious stones.

There are many chances to taste the delightful cuisines of Egypt from street vendors but the hygiene of the street vendors is not always the best and there is more chance of getting sick. Even if you want to stay with familiar western food or try out the cuisene of Egypt it is always best to take your meals in the hotel this is the best way to avoid food poisoning. It is also advisable to only drink bottled water it’s pretty cheap and will save you from trotting to the bathroom to often.

You will have lots of chances to Exercise on a trip to Cairo between exploring ancient ruins and temples, trotting round museums and if that isn’t enough Exercise for you then you may want to try the most famous bazaar in Cairo ‘The Kal el Kahilili Bazaar’ this is one of the oldest markets in Cairo and it’s a great place to pick up a bargain or two for friends or family at home. But remember you need to haggle with the street vendors; they specifically look out for westerns and although it can be fun its best to go with an idea of what you want and how much you will spend. There are many bazaars throughout Cairo my best advice is if you see something you want to purchase barter for half of what they say is the actual price and stick to it this way you wont be done.

Egypt is truly a memorable trip for everyone who journeys to the land of the pharaohs but Cairo is best enjoyed with friends; their culture is very different to that of western culture. So on this Ex Experience get one of your friends to join you on this trip of a lifetime doing this will give you peace of mind and when you get back home all you will want to do is Exhale as you relax and move on to positive new things.

Jodhpur Joy

By Naiya Sivaraj
   
Exile: Situated on the edge of the vast Thar Desert, and part of the old kingdom of Marwar, Jodhpur is the driest, and at close to 600 years, the oldest of all the Rajasthani cities. Treat yourself to a night of royalty at a plush room in the Umaid Bhawan
Palace, once the world’s largest private residence, part of which has been converted into a luxury hotel. An imposing piece of architecture, the palace is built entirely of interlocking pink sandstone blocks. The museum, fully royal family oriented, has lots of family pictures, family history and family heirlooms, giving an interesting glimpse into what a remarkably quirky and rich lifestyle they led up to the 1950s, unmatched by any other moneyed class, when they spent all their money and time on hobbies and made-to-order stuff from Cartier, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton etc. The exhibits include antique clocks, toy engines, china tableware, silver cutlery, and Chinese vases.
   
Exorcise: Jodhpur is famed for its vegetable and mineral dyed dhurries, made of pure, hand-twisted cotton, sheep wool, jute, and even smelly camel hair. Drive over to neighboring villages and pick out some in amazing colors and designs, all painstakingly woven by hand, each piece taking from anywhere between a week and three months to weave. If the weaver has time, he will smilingly give you a fascinating lecture-demonstration on dyeing and twisting the threads, and the intricate warps and weaves done on his loom. The women concentrate on beautiful hand-block printed textiles; it’s captivating to watch them at work.

Express: This is the city after which riding breeches are named, so while here try to catch an electrifying game of polo. With its heady pace, fans of the game claim that it beats any other sport for sheer thrill and excitement. The best medicine to heal your broken heart? Become a skilled equestrian yourself at the exceptional institute to train wannabe players/riders run by the present Maharaja’s family. Contact The Jodhpur Polo and Equestrian Institute at 91-291-510100 or email ubp@ndf.vsnl.net.in for details.
   
Explore: The Mehrangarh Fort, built in 1459 and set impossibly precariously on a
stone outcrop, can be viewed from miles away. Author Aldous Huxley was enamored enough to liken it to Mount Olympus, while Rudyard Kipling had this to say: “The work of angels, fairies and giants, built by Titans and colored by the morning sun. He who walks through it loses sense of being among buildings. It is as though he walked through mountain gorges…” They were not kidding. What they felt then, you can feel now. Around its massive stone ramparts and winding passageways from where only chinks of sky can be seen, you can pretend to be one of those long bygone queens who sauntered up on caparisoned elephants and lived in exquisitely latticed marble zenanas. At the entrance, hire a walkman and headphones for a helpful step by step audio guide.

After you’ve had your fill of the amazing structure and the fine views, you can go in to see ancient weaponry, delicately decorated darbar halls and roomfuls of gorgeous palanquins and whimsical cradles made for royal babies in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Also visit the Jaswant Thada on the neighboring hill, a complex of carved marble cenotaphs with beautiful jali screens, where members of the rulers’ family were cremated.
 
Exhale: Walking down from the fort is a great way to see the old city. The houses of Brahmpuri, all painted a lovely indigo blue, meant to reflect away sunrays, are very distinctive. Around the clock tower lies the crowded market where you can jostle with local shoppers and docile cows to pick up antiques, embroidered camel hide flip-flops, and chunky silver ornaments, like the ones worn by Rajasthani women. Mochi Bazaar is famed for its multihued lac bangles. If you are a keen rider, pick up a pair of jodhpurs. A Kachori with spicy mint chutney is one dish you have to try at any of the little eateries; it’s sure to leave your eyes watering, but makes a nice meal all the same. By the time you leave Jodhpur, you are going to feel very imperial yourself!
 
Before you go:
   
www.jodhpurindia.net
   
www.rajasthantourism.gov.in
   
Regional Office of Rajasthan Tourism Development Corp.,
   
Hotel Ghoomar Campus, Jodhpur.
   
Tel: 91-291-2545083

Naiya Sivaraj has been traveling since the age of three, bitten by the travel bug because of a family who took her on long summer holidays and a boarding school which took her on two week long trips to exotic places every year. Since then Naiva says she has sought desperately (while growing up) and more calmly now, to explore this beautiful world and learn about her peoples and cultures. She is currently an independent researcher, writer and photographer, and avid book reader.

Liverpool: The Hidden Secrets

By Anna Marie Roos

Liverpool is more than the Beatles.  Selected in 2008 to be the European Capital of Culture, it is a city of landmark Victorian architecture, a killer football team, amazing cathedrals, and even its own unique raisin beer.  This 800-year old city offers “ex-citement” and the friendliness of Northern England to its visitors and inhabitants. 

Exile:   When feeling exiled or lonely, the best anecdote is often going to a lively busy public place, and in Liverpool you are spoiled for choice.  The Albert Docks along the sea have the largest collection of historic buildings in Britain, lovely restaurants and shops, the Tate Modern Art Gallery, and yes, the Beatles Story.  The Docks, opened in 1846 by Prince Albert, had been one of the busiest and wealthiest ports in the world, importing rum, spirits, tobacco, and cotton.  With money came amazing architecture, and a visit wouldn’t be complete without a look at the Liver Building at Pier Head with its crowning sculptures of the Liver Bird, the city’s namesake.   The Liver Bird is the mascot of Liverpool, representing a cormorant which in past years were seen flying alongside the Mersey River. 

For more people watching, the Tate Modern is a splendid choice.   Built around a collection of post-impressions, pop art, and 1980s hyperrealism, the gallery also features rotating exhibits and installations.  The gallery is in a building called the Colonnades which looks out onto the waterfront, and the Tate Café is a wonderful place to have a cup of coffee and watch the boats.  Designed by artist Tobias Rehberger, it is a bright, colorful and welcoming place. The Colonnades also has a variety of funky shops, including Liverpool’s premier shop for Macintosh in case you want to look at the new I-Pods. 

Express:  If visiting the Tate has inspired you to engage in your own creative expression, try taking a class at the Performance Factory. The Performance Factory is a performing arts academy offering instruction to all ages in dance, drama, yoga, ballet, jazz, singing, tap, musical theatre, hip-hop and funk.   If you have a day-job, there is a “power lunch” class in AstangaVinyasa yoga that will leave you feeling energized and recharged.  The Performance Factory also works with casting agencies for more serious practitioners of the creative arts. 

The Bluecoat Center for Contemporary Arts, currently undergoing renovation to create an exciting new art space, offers courses in printmaking, as well as a rotating series of exhibitions, literary debates, and community events. 

Exorcise: If dancing or yoga hasn’t exorcised all the demons, a visit to Liverpool’s magnificent Anglican cathedral and futuristic Catholic cathedrals might do the trick.

The Anglican cathedral, made of brown brick, is a looming solid structure that impresses its viewers with its sheer majesty and size.  Visible for miles around, it is the largest cathedral in Britain.  It took seventy-four years to complete, its construction interrupted by war and post-war inflation.  Tall thin stained glass windows break up the mass, their colors reflecting in a rainbow on the interior bricks.   The Lady Chapel features a ceramic statue of the Virgin by Giovanna della Robbia from fifteenth-century Florence.  Her sweet gaze is a focal point for this tranquil place of worship 

The Catholic Cathedral is also imposing, but in a different manner.  After the Irish potato famine of 1847, Irish immigrants to Liverpool created a demand for a grand place of worship.  After several interim buildings and plans interrupted by the necessities of World War II, in 1960, the Archdiocese announced a competition to design the Catholic Cathedral.  Sir Frederick Gibberd’s futuristic design, which was seen in keeping with the reforming spirit of the Second Vatican Council, was chosen, and the cathedral was built in 1967.   On a central plan, the circular nave is awe-inspiring, with the Bishop’s chair raised on a dais.  It is also a place of contemplation and peace. 

Explore:  After your spiritual explorations, the Sefton Park area and Lark Lane of Liverpool offer delightful secular journeys.   Lark Lane is a bohemian outpost at the edge of Sefton Park, chock-a-block with ethnic restaurants (Thai, Italian, Greek, Spanish, Moroccan, and French), and funky galleries.  There is also a monthly farmer’s market that offers such delicacies as vegetarian black pudding, herbed Lancashire cheese, marinated olives, and organic vegetables.  An artist’s colony “on the lane” runs the only International Festival of Street Art, and a short distance away is the Beatles’ iconic Penny Lane. 

Adjacent to Lark Lane is Sefton Park, one of the largest green spaces in the city, and in England for that matter.  The jewel in the crown is the restored Victorian Glass House, featuring tropical palms and flowers, a wonderful place of warmth, light, and color on a rainy grey day.  Dotting its outside are sculptures of famous naturalists and explorers like Captain Cook and Darwin, and along the garden path is an iconic statue of Peter Pan, the boy who never grew up.  Grand Victorian homes surround the perimeter of the park, each a unique testament to Liverpool’s past wealth and influence, and many serve as boutique hotels. 

Exhale—National Wildflower Centre and Formby Point 

Along the motorway 62 and about five minutes from the city center, the National Wildflower Centre in the spring offers a stunning place to relax and contemplate.   Demonstration areas show you what you can do with your own garden, there is a working nursery, and a plant center.  Daisies, poppies, corncockles, evening primrose, red campion, and foxglove provide a lovely display, and meadowsweet exudes a lovely perfume.

Thirteen miles north of Liverpool is Formby point which offers stunning beaches and woodlands. Walking along the unspoiled coastline, You can see oystercatchers and sanderlings.  Exploring the nearby dunes and pine forests reveals a colony of Britain’s endangered red squirrel. With its diminutive size and tufted ears, the red squirrel was the model for Squirrel Nutkin in Beatrix Potter’s Peter Rabbit series.     The nearby town of Formby is also quite good for restaurants and shopping, Pritchard’s Bookshop offering a comprehensive selection and personalized service. 

So, whether it is ocean views, art galleries, or even the Liver bird, visiting Liverpool is an “ex-traordinary” experience.  Oh, and you can see where the Beatles got started too.

Dr. Anna Marie Roos is a research associate in the history of medicine unit at Oxford University, author of numerous academic articles and a monograph in the history of astronomy, and a published travel writer. Her Northern England Day-Trips is forthcoming from Hastings House Press. She is an American ex-pat now living in the UK with her British other half.